Moving to a DSLR from a Superzoom Digicam
If you're known as the camera nerd among your circle of friends they might ask you what camera to buy next. Recently, a friend has being passing my name to his friends and students as a resource to answer this question for them too. It's kind of a tricky situation to be in; if I ignore these emails I start to get pinged to see if I've come up with an answer yet. I wonder if I could go into business as a personal camera shopper?
My latest inquiry was from someone wanting to "move up" from a Superzoom digicam to a DSLR without losing any reach and without spending more than a $1000. Here was my advice. If you think I missed anything please leave me a comment or email:
So it seems that you are looking for a Digital SLR (DSLR). It also seems that you are looking for a long lens as well as a more general lens. $1000 for these pieces of kit is doable but you may want to change one or more elements of your initial purchase at a later date (e.g. buy these lenses now, to be getting on with, then upgrade later.)
Choosing a DSLR has as much to do with deciding which brand and system you are going to buy into as much as a specific camera model. Over time I have spent much more on lenses and accessories than I have on any one camera. My personal preference is Canon lenses so I carry a Canon DSLR these days but that is a personal decision.
The brand leaders these days are Nikon and Canon, however, Pentax, Olympus and Sony all make interesting systems and are worth looking into.
Canon - more professionals use Canon than any other brand, however, the cameras and lenses you and I would purchase are a little removed from the professional line. The current entry level Canon is the new digital rebel 400D (aka XTi). It is 10 megapixels and can be bought for around $775. This is the camera I have now but the previous Rebel (the 350D or Xt) is very similar but only has 8 megapixels and can be found for much less (around $600). To be honest, the extra 2 megapixels makes very little difference in the resulting image quality - the reason I chose the 400D over the 350D is the dust reduction system, faster speed and larger buffer - all of which may not be important to you.
The one problem with the Canon Rebels is the kit lens that they come with (kit lens means a lens that is sold with the camera). It is usable but it is not a great lens. The first upgrade lens I bought for my Canon was the 28-105mm f3.5-5.6 USM which is much better lens than the kit lens for around $230. It doesn't have the wide angle of the kit lens so you would still might use the kit lens for wide landscapes and cramped interiors but it has much more reach and better build and optical quality. It makes a great walk about lens for travel, portraits, etc. It is not especially long though. Photographers usually think of long lens being at least 200mm and more usually 300mm.
The Rebels have a "crop factor". This means that their sensors are physically smaller than the equivalent old 35mm film (known as full-frame cameras). This is common to all the cameras I am going to mention. If you are used to 35mm camera focal lengths you have to use a multiplier to get the equivalent focal length on a crop factor (also known as APS sensor) DSLR. The crop factor for Rebels is 1.6x, therefore, a 300mm lens on a Rebel behaves like a 480mm lens. This kind of focal length is great for taking good shots of animals in zoos, aircraft, etc. You can buy a Canon 75-300mm zoom for $160 - it would get you started but it is not a great lens.
One of the problem with long lens is that they exaggerate camera shake which makes them difficult to handhold in anything but ideal lighting. A relatively recent technology that helps to counter this problem is stabalization (IS in Canon terminology, VR in Nikon). This is achieved mechanically by spinning one of the elements in the lens and the gyroscopic effect this creates buffers the shake. Unfortunately this technology cost a small premium e.g. the Canon 70-300mm IS zoom lens costs about $550.
On to Nikon. The entry level Nikons are the 6 megapixel D40 and D50 which can be had for about $550 next up is the D80 which costs over $1000. I'll be honest with you, the Nikons feel more robust in your hand than the entry Canons, however, I know less about their entry level lenses except that choices seem a little more limited than Canon e.g. Nikon have far less stabilized lenses than Canon.
The Olympus DSLRs are well built and very compact. The 2 disadvantages they have over Nikon and Canon, however, are that the image quality isn't quite as good as the sensor is smaller and the lenses are more expensive and hard to find. For these reasons I wouldn't have the Olympus in my short list. Worth looking at, however, are both the Pentax K100D ($590 and 6 megapixels) and the Sony Alpha A100 ($775 and 10 megapixels). What is interesting about both these cameras is that they have image stabilization built in which makes every lens you fit on them stabilized not just premium lenses offered by the manufacturer. They do this by mounting the sensor on a moving chassis in the camera body rather than by spinning any glass in the lens. I don't know much about the lenses offered for these cameras but I have played with both of these models in the store and they seem well built and fun to use; I prefer the Pentax but that's just because Sony is a new player in the DSLR field (they bought out Minolta last year).
So there you go. I like Canon but many people prefer Nikon. If you're looking for bang for your buck Pentax and Sony are well worth checking out. The final choice is obviously yours and I would recommend actually handling all these models in a store if you can because feel and opperation may play a large part in your decision. Your choice may also be affected by how far you envisage going in photography - as I said, you're buying into a brand and system just as much as buying a camera body. Canon and Nikon have more professional options up their lines if you plan on taking your photography further, while Pentax and Sony may be more economical to begin with.
Comments
- At $379, it's more than the 28-105 but, especially if they're looking to shoot indoors, I might also consider the Tamron 28-75mm 2.8. Excellent lens for the price and generally considered to be very close to L quality.
- The Tamron 70-300mm 4.5-5.6 is a higher quality lens than the Canon for the same price.
- I think one of the most important and also most frequently unknown issues with graduating to a dslr is that your images are no longer ready straight from camera. P&S images come out tack sharp and well-contrasted. Images from a dslr are more raw (and I don't mean RAW). So many people are disappointed when they take their first dslr shots and find them dull and slightly soft. The process doesn't end there...you'll most likely need to spend some time in Photoshop (or some equivalent) to get your finished product.
- If you don't know how to use your P&S very well or much about the basics of photography, a better camera won't make you a better photographer. :)
Good luck!
I, as a professional photographer, find all the gear talk ominous. But, since graduating college and trying to make a living at it I've made it my business to know. So as a Canon 10D user and many fellow photographer friends who use Nikon, I would say that they're are benefits to both. The problem is the gazillion dollars you have to spend to get started in this business. My professor in school said it's not about the gear, it's the eye and exposure. I think he's right because I've done fine with one canon lens for almost 2 years now. Trouble is that I need another lens now and lighting gear. Anyway - that's another story.
As for a consumer amateur DSLR, I'd say that Canon is pretty good but so is the new Nikon D80. I think at this level there isn't much difference...it's when you get to the big bucks that Canon and Nikon choices make a significant difference.
I should stop carrying on because I think I've gone off on a tangent.
My point? Can't go wrong with either Canon or Nikon. Stick with those two choices and go from there.
I could blab on and on but I won't ruin your blog Martin! Great advise.
Seriously, I'm not a gear head pro and I'm sorry if I came off that way!
Zazu, I left 3rd party lenses out of the mix to simplify things. Like Jule, I am a little suspicious of them. I've had frustrating focusing and compatibility problems with them in the past. I have a prejudice against Tamron but that's a whole other story. If I could buy the lens from a local store to check the quality of the specific copy on my camera I would do it - I have my eye on a 10-20 from Sigma but I will buy it from the local Calumet rather than the net. This could be too confusing to explain to someone new to the whole interchangeable lens thing.
Jule - I think you're right to suggest sticking with the big 2 manufacturers but I felt duty bound to mention Pentax and Sony. I have done much more than play with their models in stores but they've been getting good reviews.
Melissa - good luck with the DSLR purchase. I have the xti and am liking it (before this I had the original Rebel). Zazu is right in that it can be a little frustrating when you first make the move but stick with it and it is worth the effort.
Lee - Like Jule I try to pretend that I'm not a gear-head but part of me is. I hate to admit it but I can even find equipment inspiring. I wish my friends and acquaintances thought of me more for my photography than my knowledge of cameras but I guess that's something I'll have to continue to work on.
Once again, thanks for the comments. -Martin